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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, tucked near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” states a family member, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its original charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.